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Exanimate
08-11-2006, 05:33 PM
Recently in my finished basement I had a flood. Goddamn sewer line backed up, and made a mess. I have torn the carpet out, and bleached, etc..., and it is now spotless. There is a slim chance that it will happen again, as we fixed the problem. However I don't want to chance it again by putting carpet back down here.

We have decided to put tile down instead. I have tiled plenty of times, and installation isn't the problem. The questions I have are these. The floor is concrete which is perfect, so I won't need a sub floor. However part of the concrete is painted. What is the best way to remove the paint? I would prefer to not use a really bad chemical, but if I have to I will. The other problem is that the concrete is really smooth, and I know that the concrete should be rough. What is the best procedure to make it rough?

Sorry for the long read, but I tend to over explain when I don't need to.

kid afrika
08-11-2006, 05:34 PM
Can't say that I've met her...

NORTONnFRIENDS
08-11-2006, 05:39 PM
Recently in my finished basement I had a flood. Goddamn sewer line backed up, and made a mess. I have torn the carpet out, and bleached, etc..., and it is now spotless. There is a slim chance that it will happen again, as we fixed the problem. However I don't want to chance it again by putting carpet back down here.

We have decided to put tile down instead. I have tiled plenty of times, and installation isn't the problem. The questions I have are these. The floor is concrete which is perfect, so I won't need a sub floor. However part of the concrete is painted. What is the best way to remove the paint? I would prefer to not use a really bad chemical, but if I have to I will. The other problem is that the concrete is really smooth, and I know that the concrete should be rough. What is the best procedure to make it rough?

Sorry for the long read, but I tend to over explain when I don't need to.

No, but im killer at layn pipe.

Hudson
08-11-2006, 05:42 PM
Try a floor sander with the roughest grit you can find.
Short of that, try using muratic acid on the paint with a water wash down

Voss's Tumor
08-11-2006, 05:45 PM
No, but im killer at layn pipe.

Fuck you and your quick trigger finger. :icon_frow

stevethrower
08-11-2006, 05:47 PM
Instead of tile you could put down a laminated floor (little easier to install then ceramic tile) or even carpet again with this stuff installed underneath it.

http://www.deltams.com/bvf/ca-en/products/floor/products/FL.php

If you are thinking about vinyl tile or sheet goods make sure you get the proper adhesive for below grade applications.

Wrecktum
08-11-2006, 05:49 PM
No, but im killer at layn pipe.

Are ya?

Taso
08-11-2006, 06:12 PM
I have been doing carpets and tiles since i was 11, I am 24 now, so if that means anything to you, read on.
Get a floor scraper and try to sand the floor down with the scraper. A floor scraper basically looks like a garden hoe, scrape it down till you get a nice enough surface, clean it up all nicey nice. If there are uneven surfaces on your floor, you can use Dash Patch or any other product that help level your floor.
Then if you are using the correct adhesive it should stick to the concrete perfectly fine.
Just remember when you start tiling, to start tiling six inches away from the wall instead of the mistake people normally make of starting right up against the wall.

Budyzir
08-11-2006, 06:31 PM
I have been doing carpets and tiles since i was 11, I am 24 now, so if that means anything to you, read on.
Get a floor scraper and try to sand the floor down with the scraper. A floor scraper basically looks like a garden hoe, scrape it down till you get a nice enough surface, clean it up all nicey nice. If there are uneven surfaces on your floor, you can use Dash Patch or any other product that help level your floor.
Then if you are using the correct adhesive it should stick to the concrete perfectly fine.
Just remember when you start tiling, to start tiling six inches away from the wall instead of the mistake people normally make of starting right up against the wall.

Hem, question, shouldn't the bare floor be waterproofed with (the name escapes me) that water proofing paint first? That was my initial thought when I started reading this thread.

generoso
08-11-2006, 06:38 PM
I have been doing carpets and tiles since i was 11, I am 24 now, so if that means anything to you, read on.
Get a floor scraper and try to sand the floor down with the scraper. A floor scraper basically looks like a garden hoe, scrape it down till you get a nice enough surface, clean it up all nicey nice. If there are uneven surfaces on your floor, you can use Dash Patch or any other product that help level your floor.
Then if you are using the correct adhesive it should stick to the concrete perfectly fine.
Just remember when you start tiling, to start tiling six inches away from the wall instead of the mistake people normally make of starting right up against the wall.
I was always told to lay from the center out as to have a even edge all around.

D.H. Jenkins
08-11-2006, 06:44 PM
Hem, question, shouldn't the bare floor be waterproofed with (the name escapes me) that water proofing paint first? That was my initial thought when I started reading this thread.

Absolutely not. You want your tiles attatched to the concrete, not to the paint. Besides, tile floors are inherently waterproof when the grout is properly sealed.

Haeder
08-11-2006, 07:04 PM
Try a wallpaper steamer. I used one to remove some awful underlayment glue from a floor about a year ago when nothing else would work. Takes about a half hour for the thing to start kicking out steam. Use the large attachment - about the size of a sheet of paper - and put it face down on the floor. Let it sit for about a minute or two and move it off to the side then scrape the steamed paint off. Should almost wipe off with little or no effort.

It's not a fast option, only about one square foot per minute, but it'll probably be one of the easiest ways to get the job done.

Good luck bro.

Digital_Trauma
08-11-2006, 08:08 PM
If you're worried about chemicals, especially in a basement, you can find several citrus based paint solvents and etching acids. I used some one time in a room without much ventilation. I got mine from a local paint store.

kloraferm
08-11-2006, 08:22 PM
Can't say that I've met her...
Ya beat me to it dammit! :rolleyes:

tar_baby
08-11-2006, 08:31 PM
No, but im killer at layn pipe.

HEY-OHHHH!!!!

themadsplatter
08-11-2006, 08:36 PM
juat clean up really good and scrape any lose pain so you have a secure surface to bond to.the go to home depot , the have a product made for ahhering to smooth surfaces

Exanimate
08-11-2006, 08:46 PM
Thanks for all of the suggestions. I just want to make sure that I get a good, solid bond. Keep all of the tips coming.

WMB
08-11-2006, 08:51 PM
I've laid plenty of tile over concrete that is pretty smooth. You shouldn't have a problem. Stick with a good brand latex modified thinset like TEC, stay away from the home center cheapo stuff, and should be good to go. Unless by smooth you meen a polished finish, which I doubt you would have in a basement.

As for the paint, muriatic acid should do the trick and with windows open and some fans going you should be ok. Depending on how finished your basement is, you could use a presure washer. If you already have water damage, a little more won't kill ya. You could set up some diking and a sump pump to move the excess water out.

kid afrika
08-11-2006, 11:19 PM
Ya beat me to it dammit! :rolleyes:
I can't believe there were serious replies to this thread.

Taso
08-12-2006, 11:06 AM
I was always told to lay from the center out as to have a even edge all around.
I was taught 6" from the wall, and the number was 6" because for the most part tiles tend to be 12x12, you can adjust accordingly though, depending on tile size.
And even at the center, you are not guaranteed to have an even edge all around. Since I started working with my dad, I have never ever seen a perfectly square room. In the end, all tiles will end up giving you an angle to never expected to see when you hit the corners.

Polack
08-12-2006, 11:40 AM
They make concrete grinding wheels for 9 inch grinders. If you use that it will take the paint off and rough the concrete up enough for the mortar to bond to.

WMB
08-12-2006, 11:58 AM
I was taught 6" from the wall, and the number was 6" because for the most part tiles tend to be 12x12, you can adjust accordingly though, depending on tile size.
And even at the center, you are not guaranteed to have an even edge all around. Since I started working with my dad, I have never ever seen a perfectly square room. In the end, all tiles will end up giving you an angle to never expected to see when you hit the corners.

I like to start in the center. I strike some lines and layout some rows of tile seeing the size of the cut left over at the wall. If I start center with a grout line and I'm left with a small cut (less that 1/3 the o/a width of the tile) I switch the center tile to start centered on a tile, not an edge/grout line. This adds 1/2 a tile width to the last cut.

Warfarer
08-12-2006, 06:02 PM
They make concrete grinding wheels for 9 inch grinders. If you use that it will take the paint off and rough the concrete up enough for the mortar to bond to.

A concrete grinding wheel won't rough up the concrete, it actually will seal it more. I would get a wire wheel for a grinder if that is an option. A wire wheel will open the pores in the concrete to bond better, you can trust me on this, I run a concrete company and have gone to many seminars on concrete repair and such. The grinding wheel isn't bad for taking the paint off, but be careful how deep you go into the concrete with it. If you are sweating the bond, use a heavy wire wheel and buy some stuff called a bonding agent which will help adhere to the concrete. Any questions, you can shoot them to me and I will help as much as I can.

bruisedballbag
08-14-2006, 03:14 PM
Laminate flooring is not the way to go as water can be trapped under it.


Use a sander and scuff the floor, there are also cleaners available to remove the paint and any oils that may be in the floor.

I would suggest that you chemically clean it as some oils may have risen to through the cement and then, if necessary, use a bonding agent.

If the paint is not just a latex top coat, then you will need to use chemicals as an oil based paint would have seeped in tot he concrete, and with that comes oils that may becomes active when you drop down thinset.

Chemically clean it and use a bonding agent, you will be good for life. It would also appreciate the value of the home.


There are chemicals that are not so caustic and biodegradible.

Exanimate
08-14-2006, 03:33 PM
I picked up a paint stripper last night, but it doesn't work so well. Here is what I am dealing with.
http://www.jbeter.net/flloor003.jpg
http://www.jbeter.net/flloor004.jpg
http://www.jbeter.net/flloor005.jpg

As I stated before, I can tile fine. That isn't a problem. I just want to make sure that I prep the floor correctly. Thanks to everyone who has offered advice. Who knew that Wackbag would be such a great learning tool.

Exanimate
08-14-2006, 03:35 PM
Also, don't ask what the fuck that paint is like that for. I have determined that the previous owners of this house were fucking retards.