Any HVAC specialists out there?

flyerfan116

Fuckin savages
Apr 14, 2005
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#1
just had a question...i've been renovating a house i bought a couple of months ago, did a shit load of work tearing down walls, removing plaster, sheetrock spackling, etc. now i am getting ready to move in and someone i know suggested i get the ductwork cleaned or "blown out" to remove all the dust that could be in there from all the work i've done...is this really effective? how long does it take/what is involved...how much should i expect to pay? thanks for any help you can offer.
 

Glenn Dandy

THE ONLY WHITE PRESIDENT LEFT.
Mar 21, 2005
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#2
Anthony said he would come over after the show n check er out fer ya.



Only time i saw that vac shit was ... some cat climbed into the ductwork n had kittens... when i was installing the water heater this nasty dead kitten smell cam out of the vents... we called that cool big sucker truck. they use clear hoses and we got to see the lil dead kittys tumble toward their final resting place.
 

Capt.Hilarious

Of all the names to choose...Capt.Hilarious?
Apr 26, 2006
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#3
It depends on the size of the system and how many supply runs you have. Usually it is a good idea to do every five years or so but if the system has been off for a while and there has been a lot of construction, especially spackling and sanding, I would recommend it. It would probably get blown out anyway but why risk it.

Here in Chicago, I've had it done on systems for 3 bedroom apartments and a couple of stores and it's been between $300 and $500. They should also clean your air handler and coil.

It should only take few hours and they basically just hook up a specialized vaccuum to long hoses that can travel the ducts. It won't be spotless but will help. Also, make sure you change your filters!
 
Apr 22, 2005
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Bucks Co., PA
#4
The fact that you had plaster, I'd say do it. I've cleaned out registers after gutting kitchens and bathrooms and you'd be surprised how much shit gets in the system.

Sears offers a duct cleaning service. You can probably even use Sears coupons.

http://www.searsclean.com/airduct.asp
 

flyerfan116

Fuckin savages
Apr 14, 2005
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#5
Thanks...didn't even think of Sears seems worth it for a couple of hundred
 

Furtherman

Registered User
Nov 4, 2005
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#6
Ronfez.net is missing a GVAC. An older model, but still reliable. Please return if found. Thank you.
 

BCH

Doesn't need your acknowledgement on Twitter
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Jun 9, 2005
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#7
I've always considered duct cleaning to be a bullshit operation. The first time you run the fan again you'll blow out anything that's ahead of the unit's coil and loose enough for the fan to dislodge. If there's somthing lodged in there good enough where the fan's not going to blow it out then why worry about it? It's not going to make it into the house anyway and last I checked, a little sheetrock dust in the ductwork won't restrict airflow.


IMHO, Install a new filter ($5.00) Run the fan a while, then have the cooling coil cleaned and change the filter again. Use a pleated filter to protect the unit from re-injesting the sheetrock dust.

Then dust the house, done. We're not talking black mold or asbestos here.

As for cleaning the insides of the ductwork, meh.
 

Glenn Dandy

THE ONLY WHITE PRESIDENT LEFT.
Mar 21, 2005
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Wackbag Whitehouse.
#8
What if theres dead kittys in there?


I'm with BCH on this... dont waste your money. Do what he said too.


spend your money on a good AC & heater service.... clean the soot out of your heater and get your freon checked. money well spent.


If you feel you gotr construction debris down your heat vents just shove a wet vac hose down, or vacuum cleaner if their small.
 

Sinn Fein

Infidel and White Interloper
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Aug 29, 2002
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#9
I gotta say, we had the ducts cleaned in our house and it made a hell of a difference. For a split-level 2800+ sq-foot with 2-zone heat and central air, it only cost us a couple hundred bucks or so.

I use MERV8 filters in our heat pumps and change them monthly in the bigger unit, every other month in the smaller unit because it doesn't run as much.
 

Sinn Fein

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#11
ALOT less dust in the house and I don't wake up hacking in the middle of the night anymore.
 

Glenn Dandy

THE ONLY WHITE PRESIDENT LEFT.
Mar 21, 2005
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Wackbag Whitehouse.
#13
I dont know, Im like a cockroach.... dust is the a non point when you smoke and gut bathrooms for a living.. I literaly cough up sheetrock flem balls.
 

poopiebottoms

Sparkling Wiggles Lover
Aug 23, 2002
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#14
We had some major sheetrock/painting/insulation removal and replacement throughout most of the house from mold and water damage.

We had the ducts cleaned by a cleaning service (a large one that does mold, fire and water damage) for just under $300. The guy came in and basically vacuumed out the ducts for about 4 hours. It did remove a lot of crap.

I'm glad we did it.
 

Myhairygrundle

Screw you guys, I'm going home.
Jul 16, 2005
6,797
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#15
The duct work holds all sorts of allergens, dust, mold, etc. I don't know what the process up north is...

Here they attach a huge HEPA vac to the return air opening and turn it on, then they take a long rotating brush and go through each run brushing loose all the nasty shit in there.




.
 

Sinn Fein

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Aug 29, 2002
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#16
That's basically what I've seen done. We converted this house from single-zone hot-air oil heat w/no AC to dual-zone heat pumps. Some new ductwork was installed as part of the process, and consequently some of the existing ductwork was removed/abandoned. The existing ductwork was fucking filthy.
 

MrAbovePar

En Taro Anthony
Mar 14, 2005
13,779
3,173
678
Covington. La
#17
Ok...got a few HVAC needs.

I have a 2 ton Trane XE 800 out side the house. My coils inside are falling apart. Literally. The condensate pan busted a while back and it steadily dropped into the overflow pan below. The whole side of the unit is soaking wet constantly and rusting out slowly. I know this is probably all kinds of hazardous.

I looked up the compressor and it's a 10 on the SEER scale. Also it runs 16-18 hours a day. Here's the questions.

1. Can I get by with just changing the inside coils?
2. What type of savings bump would I see if I went with a 14 SEER 2-ton unit.

Money isn't plentiful right now but I'll pay the extra if it saves me enough to pay for itself in a year or two.
 

weeniewawa

it's a man, baby!!!
May 21, 2005
12,076
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Hell,California
#18
just get a swamp cooler and a few fans, heat and humidity can't be too bad in LA this time of year? ;)
 

BCH

Doesn't need your acknowledgement on Twitter
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Jun 9, 2005
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#21
Ok...got a few HVAC needs.

I have a 2 ton Trane XE 800 out side the house. My coils inside are falling apart. Literally. The condensate pan busted a while back and it steadily dropped into the overflow pan below. The whole side of the unit is soaking wet constantly and rusting out slowly. I know this is probably all kinds of hazardous.

I looked up the compressor and it's a 10 on the SEER scale. Also it runs 16-18 hours a day. Here's the questions.

1. Can I get by with just changing the inside coils?
2. What type of savings bump would I see if I went with a 14 SEER 2-ton unit.

Money isn't plentiful right now but I'll pay the extra if it saves me enough to pay for itself in a year or two.
You'll see a big bump moving from a 10 to a 14 if your AC is running for that long each day. Also, there are compatibility issues with older/modern equipment when changing only half a system, although 10SEER is pretty standard stuff and still available. If I lived in Texas, I'd consider a very high SEER. 1 year payback is alot to ask but 5 years isn't outside the realm depending on what you pay for a KW. Have a new heat load calculation done first and don't just replace it with another 2 ton necessarily.
 

Myhairygrundle

Screw you guys, I'm going home.
Jul 16, 2005
6,797
1,944
543
Texas
#22
Ok...got a few HVAC needs.

I have a 2 ton Trane XE 800 out side the house. My coils inside are falling apart. Literally. The condensate pan busted a while back and it steadily dropped into the overflow pan below. The whole side of the unit is soaking wet constantly and rusting out slowly. I know this is probably all kinds of hazardous.

I looked up the compressor and it's a 10 on the SEER scale. Also it runs 16-18 hours a day. Here's the questions.

1. Can I get by with just changing the inside coils?
2. What type of savings bump would I see if I went with a 14 SEER 2-ton unit.

Money isn't plentiful right now but I'll pay the extra if it saves me enough to pay for itself in a year or two.

I think 13 is the minimum SEER now. You don't want to oversize the system. Also if water is going into your secondary pan, have the primary drain line cleaned ASAFP. There are gallons of water in there. This might be a temporary fix...

Locate the primary drain line from the coils. Likely above the secondary pan.

If it drains outside your house, you can back flush it with a garden hose. Or take a pipe snake or coat hanger and dig the shit out the line.

The unit will not cool properly when water is covering the evap coils. Once it is drained and cleaned, make sure the transition is sealed and I bet you will have colder air.

[media]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NBoFNaEEIJQ[/media]
 

MrAbovePar

En Taro Anthony
Mar 14, 2005
13,779
3,173
678
Covington. La
#23
Well the drain line isn't clogged. Sometime a while back someone stepped on the pvc pipe and flexed it causing it to snap at the inlet. I used some putty to get it back on but eventually it snapped again and I can't re-putty it.

I talked with an old family friend last night about it. I was mistaken about my system size. I read him the serial number and he said it's a 3 ton system. He's going to change out my handler for me with a new 3 ton variable speed. If the compressor looks like it's shot then he'll swap that out too.
 

striker

Why yes, I am an asshole, so what?
Mar 10, 2005
2,603
9
263
Colorado
#24
just had a question...i've been renovating a house i bought a couple of months ago, did a shit load of work tearing down walls, removing plaster, sheetrock spackling, etc. now i am getting ready to move in and someone i know suggested i get the ductwork cleaned or "blown out" to remove all the dust that could be in there from all the work i've done...is this really effective? how long does it take/what is involved...how much should i expect to pay? thanks for any help you can offer.
it is totally worth having it done, especially if you've been renovating. WHen the house next door were first built, the first time they turned on the furance they house filled the house with this thick cloud of dust and debris. It was enough to actually trigger the smoke alarms. He called fire dept. they opened the windows and vented the house for 30 minutes to clear it. We've had ours done once in 8 yrs, service was here for about 5 hrs and we only have 8 vents and 2 returns. Made a noticable difference, I then bought some MERV 10 filters (ours attach at the returns not the furance) and it helped also.

I've always considered duct cleaning to be a bullshit operation. The first time you run the fan again you'll blow out anything that's ahead of the unit's coil and loose enough for the fan to dislodge. If there's somthing lodged in there good enough where the fan's not going to blow it out then why worry about it? It's not going to make it into the house anyway and last I checked.

Then dust the house, done. We're not talking black mold or asbestos here.

As for cleaning the insides of the ductwork, meh.
glad you moderate a message board and not treat people for allergies, you would be amazed the amount of debris, mold, and other nasty shit they clean out of the duct work. I've got serious allergies and when ours were cleaned it made my life better within a couple of hours.

ALOT less dust in the house and I don't wake up hacking in the middle of the night anymore.
x2

We had some major sheetrock/painting/insulation removal and replacement throughout most of the house from mold and water damage..
Even cleaning every 5 to 10 yrs for general purposes is helpful.

Ok...got a few HVAC needs.

I have a 2 ton Trane XE 800 out side the house. My coils inside are falling apart. Literally. The condensate pan busted a while back and it steadily dropped into the overflow pan below. The whole side of the unit is soaking wet constantly and rusting out slowly. I know this is probably all kinds of hazardous.

I looked up the compressor and it's a 10 on the SEER scale. Also it runs 16-18 hours a day. Here's the questions.

1. Can I get by with just changing the inside coils?
2. What type of savings bump would I see if I went with a 14 SEER 2-ton unit.

Money isn't plentiful right now but I'll pay the extra if it saves me enough to pay for itself in a year or two.
if you can swing it, go with a larger more efficent unit. My house is only 1200 Sq ft, when we had our A/C installed we went with a 2.5 tn unit, it cools better. The other suggestion would be the variable speed fan, a programmable thermostat, also look at one of the thermostat's that keeps the temp at a specific setting year round, it automatically switches on the furnace when needed.