General Bitching and Moaning about your car/truck thread

tattered

Uber-Aryan
Wackbag Staff
Check plugs, wires, and distributer. Sounds like a misfire
Had this truck given to me, 302, engine shakes violently, sorta won't idle. Drove it 20 miles home but it was kinda dicey. Where should I start to look to diagnose it? I was thinking MAF, air filter, vacuum lines, read something about the balancer can go bad on these motors too.
Edit: also heard timing chain, but it doesn't act like timing, no popping or backfiring, just runs extremely rough and shakes like it's going to break the mounts.
 

THE FEZ MAN

as a matter of fact i dont have 5$
Soldier on then , sir
You have the time and patience
I don't
I have the patience of a retard and about 3 months before I head back to shore for fishing. I just have always wanted to do something with this truck, it’s not “worth” anything that ship sailed years ago the 3-5k I might get for it (probably 3) isn’t worth it to me, I would rather put 5k into it and drive it till it falls apart , eventually I’m going to leave it down OCMD
 

jnoble

Lingering longer for a longering linger
Yea, I’m bored idle and rich, I’ve always wanted a “cool” truck, now I have the money and time, fuck it
I always liked the early 90s Dodge Stealth R/T's with the twin turbo and AWD , all wheel steering, adjustable suspension & exhaust. But I've heard nothing but horror stories of how they are money pits to maintain even when still fairly new
 
I have the patience of a retard and about 3 months before I head back to shore for fishing. I just have always wanted to do something with this truck, it’s not “worth” anything that ship sailed years ago the 3-5k I might get for it (probably 3) isn’t worth it to me, I would rather put 5k into it and drive it till it falls apart , eventually I’m going to leave it down OCMD

Someday maybe I'll surf fish with you
And we'll drink to our rusty trucks
And catch little fishes
I don't know shit about surf fishing
 
new LED / HID leadlamps and led tail lights, paint it, and I might even splurge for a new radio because this one doesn’t have a an aux input.
Assume that truck has reflective housings for halogen lights now. Do try to find housings with projectors meant for LED or HID, they will work so much better. HID's with cutoffs work pretty damn good. LED is getting better and better but really need a housing designed for it or they just have worthless light throw.

Car stereo has changed so much and now many phones or future phones wont have headphone jacks for that AUX input. If you're going AUX all the time think about just putting an amp in rather than even mess with a headunit. We got a little amp for little work van that can do RCA inputs or Bluetooth.
 
Supposed to in the 50s this weekend, so I'll start on the freebie 150. Just put a DVD player in my work car so i can watch movies on my commute.
 

ysr50

Well-Known Member
Donator
Supposed to in the 50s this weekend, so I'll start on the freebie 150. Just put a DVD player in my work car so i can watch movies on my commute.
Is it too much to ask that you just drive when you're operating a motor vehicle?
 
Nope, I spent 30 years repairing shit boxes for everyone and their brothers and never “built” anything for myself. I’ve got all the tools and the talent, and the money, hell I was thinking about “flaring” the sides if he tires stick out to much, I already planned out my cuts. I’m buying a new truck, if dodge doesn’t reintroduce the Dakota within the next two years, I will look into a new Colorado or the new Jeep gladiator, I don’t want a “full size” truck and I hate Toyota’s .
I’m going to finish the suspension then tackle the engine leaks, put plugs in it, redo the headliner, put a matching rear bumper on it and new LED / HID leadlamps and led tail lights, paint it, and I might even splurge for a new radio because this one doesn’t have a an aux input.
Ya I did all LED in my truck just had to put resistors for he brake lights as they don't draw as much.

And I had to replace the head unit in my truck as wasn't going to spend the whatever Nissan wanted for a new one... plus the new one works moar gooder then the factory one with the location of the mic for the phone and shit...
 

THE FEZ MAN

as a matter of fact i dont have 5$
I always liked the early 90s Dodge Stealth R/T's with the twin turbo and AWD , all wheel steering, adjustable suspension & exhaust. But I've heard nothing but horror stories of how they are money pits to maintain even when still fairly new
The Mitsubishi GT3000 was a much better car but you’re right, they were maintenance nightmares
 

THE FEZ MAN

as a matter of fact i dont have 5$
Someday maybe I'll surf fish with you
And we'll drink to our rusty trucks
And catch little fishes
I don't know shit about surf fishing
It’s basically sitting on the beach not catching shit
 

THE FEZ MAN

as a matter of fact i dont have 5$
Assume that truck has reflective housings for halogen lights now. Do try to find housings with projectors meant for LED or HID, they will work so much better. HID's with cutoffs work pretty damn good. LED is getting better and better but really need a housing designed for it or they just have worthless light throw.

Car stereo has changed so much and now many phones or future phones wont have headphone jacks for that AUX input. If you're going AUX all the time think about just putting an amp in rather than even mess with a headunit. We got a little amp for little work van that can do RCA inputs or Bluetooth.
I’m looking at completely new housings designed for HID, not those shitty chink knock offs
 

jnoble

Lingering longer for a longering linger
The Mitsubishi GT3000 was a much better car but you’re right, they were maintenance nightmares
The 3000GT was the same car with minor cosmetic differences like the headlights/taillights/spoiler

When I read the forums for those cars for every person who claims they had one and it was one expensive repair after another there's someone else saying they had one and as long as the scheduled maintenance is done it was troublefree. I've read multiple times that they snapped timing belts at almost exactly 60K if you didn't change it on time
 

THE FEZ MAN

as a matter of fact i dont have 5$
The 3000GT was the same car with minor cosmetic differences like the headlights/taillights/spoiler

When I read the forums for those cars for every person who claims they had one and it was one expensive repair after another there's someone else saying they had one and as long as the scheduled maintenance is done it was troublefree. I've read multiple times that they snapped timing belts at almost exactly 60K if you didn't change it on time
I worked at a high end body shop back in the early 90’s I worked on several of both I always liked the Mitsubishi better

 

jnoble

Lingering longer for a longering linger
I miss the late '80s/early '90s era of the turbo hatchbacks and coupes. I've always liked the old Chysler Conquest TSI's too. Rear wheel drive with a turbo 4 and the coolest looking factory wheels ever made.
I had a '93 Ford Probe GT from 2001-2007. Black with a 5 speed. I referred to it as The Money Pit because all it did was cost me in repairs and replacements in the last three years I owned it.
 

5skin

Registered User
It's hard to understand why anyone would punish themselves for no reason. A new truck is expensive but it has value, even when you trade up in a couple years it still has value. I wouldn't think twice about using and abusing a new truck. Upon trade I don't even go look at them, just send me one equivalent or better in my color of choice and take this one away. Dealers love this kind of repeat business and it lowers the cost of an $85k truck to $3-4k traded. Rinse repeat.

Edit: I've also enjoyed online purchases of used vehicles and flown to pick up and drive home. Tucson was the best, home through Sedona, Grand Canyon, Zion, Bryce, Arches, Moab, on a 12 day time frame. It was great.
 

THE FEZ MAN

as a matter of fact i dont have 5$
It's hard to understand why anyone would punish themselves for no reason. A new truck is expensive but it has value, even when you trade up in a couple years it still has value. I wouldn't think twice about using and abusing a new truck. Upon trade I don't even go look at them, just send me one equivalent or better in my color of choice and take this one away. Dealers love this kind of repeat business and it lowers the cost of an $85k truck to $3-4k traded. Rinse repeat.

Edit: I've also enjoyed online purchases of used vehicles and flown to pick up and drive home. Tucson was the best, home through Sedona, Grand Canyon, Zion, Bryce, Arches, Moab, on a 12 day time frame. It was great.
I hate used cars it’s like buying dirty underwear to me unless it’s something really exotic. I’m going to buy a new truck, just not now. I also hate fucking car payments, the wife? Brand new car every 4 years no questions asked, me? Fuck it, I’m driving that shit box and fixing it till I can’t fix it no more. It’s what I did for a good 15 years of my career, except now I can do it exactly how I want.
I head blasted the spindles, all of the brackets for the sway bar, I’m going to wire brush the nuts and bolts tomorrow and acid etch them before I install them then after it’s all assembled I will paint the heads.
 

ysr50

Well-Known Member
Donator
I hate used cars it’s like buying dirty underwear to me unless it’s something really exotic. I’m going to buy a new truck, just not now. I also hate fucking car payments, the wife? Brand new car every 4 years no questions asked, me? Fuck it, I’m driving that shit box and fixing it till I can’t fix it no more. It’s what I did for a good 15 years of my career, except now I can do it exactly how I want.
I head blasted the spindles, all of the brackets for the sway bar, I’m going to wire brush the nuts and bolts tomorrow and acid etch them before I install them then after it’s all assembled I will paint the heads.
Acid etch isn't going to give any sort of corrosion protection on the hardware in the long run, nuts and bolts are cheap and you're already spending plenty on this project. I doubt getting the hardware new would be difficult unless it's some non standard stuff, even if it is you've said you want to take the time to do it right. A guy I respected very much that unexpectedly passed away last weekend used to say "The longest distance between two points is a short cut." In other words just do it right the first time and be done with it.
 
Last edited:

THE FEZ MAN

as a matter of fact i dont have 5$
Acid etch isn't going to give any sort of corrosion protection on the hardware in the long run, nuts and bolts are cheap and you're already spending plenty on this project. I doubt getting the hardware new would be difficult unless it's some non standard stuff, even if it is you've said you want to take the time to do it right. A guy I respected very much that unexpectedly passed away last weekend used to say "The longest distance between two points is a short cut." In other words just do it right the first time and be done with it.
I’m going to paint them after they are installed the acid etch is to just give the paint some grip i have already replaced a few of them, it is actually shockingly difficult to get the correct hardware for some cars, and the thread pitch is weird so going to the local hardware store isn’t the answer
 
Last edited:

ysr50

Well-Known Member
Donator
I’m going to paint them after they are installed the acid etch is to just give the paint some grip impoverish already replaced a few of them, it is actually shockingly difficult to get the correct hardware for some cars, and the thread pitch is weird so going to the local hardware store isn’t the answer
McMaster-Carr or Grainger or even Fastenall might have what you need. You can also have the existing hardware stripped and replated by any number of shops. If you can get ammonium nitrate it will strip cad plating if it's mixed with water and maybe save a little money, although it's pretty hard to get these days because of some other things you can use it for. Strip it, media blast it and drop it off at your friendly local metal refinishing company and you can pick up what looks like brand new hardware a couple of days later. Just be sure to specify cad 1 (silver) or cad 2 (gold). When I was working on warbirds this was a fairly common thing for us to do because we had no choice due to parts being fairly nonexistent.
 

THE FEZ MAN

as a matter of fact i dont have 5$
McMaster-Carr or Grainger or even Fastenall might have what you need. You can also have the existing hardware stripped and replated by any number of shops. If you can get ammonium nitrate it will strip cad plating if it's mixed with water and maybe save a little money, although it's pretty hard to get these days because of some other things you can use it for. Strip it, media blast it and drop it off at your friendly local metal refinishing company and you can pick up what looks like brand new hardware a couple of days later. Just be sure to specify cad 1 (silver) or cad 2 (gold). When I was working on warbirds this was a fairly common thing for us to do because we had no choice due to parts being fairly nonexistent.
Lol, it’s not an airplane and, getting something cad plated around here is super expensive. It’s really just a few of the larger bolts that hold the control arms on, I’m not sure if aircraft use them but they often have built in warshers and weird heads. Lucky for me none of them are torque to yeald, that’s usually seat belts and Volkswagen loves to use them so new parts usually come with the parts
 
Top