Yes and no, when I was making the grips for my .38 I started with a hunk of zebra wood but screwed it up and had to scrap it, exotics are very expensive so I’ve been teaching myself joints with cheep pine and poplar, I really want to get into veneers but until I start getting consistent results I don’t want to waste it. I have noticed that harder woods are much easier to work with, the bummer is it’s expensive
Actually before I went to votech for autobody I considered staying in regular high school and sticking with wood shop/industrial arts / art as a major, my biggest problem with wood is cutting stuff too short, and making sure my tools are square I noticed that some times my table saw will tilt a little and that will fuck up everything, I have a little machinist square that I keep right on the saw, every time I change the blade I have to make sure it is still square to the table, and square to the fence, and, I’m cutting the stock square to the fence, another huge problem for me is my “perfectionist” attitude I often forget that I’m basically teaching my self how to do this kind of stuff, my goal is to be able to build a box like that from scratch (full scratch, milling the rough lumber to project ready for a finish) in less than 4 hours, the box in the photo took me about 8 hours over 2 days, I would like to be able to streamline that process, I spend a lot of time resetting my equipment because I don’t yet have the skill to make all the cuts at one time, so I had to cut all the miters and trim them to “stain grade” then cut the rabbit for the glass, then glue it, then cut the slots for the miter pins, then cut the bottom rabbit, that is four different set ups and break downs of the saw, a good craftsman would be able to make all the cuts from measurement, but, my brain just doesn’t work that way.
you cut things to short because your either not cutting on the right side of your mark or not accounting for the thickness of the blade. pro tip: when making your mark to cut make a little check mark going toward a higher measurement. this way you know thats the side you want the blade on. also almost all saw blades are 1/8" thick. use a tape measure to double check your fence setting by measuring from the fence to the edge of the blade teeth. do it both front and back it will ensure your fence is square too
I have that tool it’s called a guillotine miter trimmer, and it works great depending on the type of wood I’m using you get your cut as close as possible then trim of like a 32nd of an inch to square up the end ad it puts a super smooth finish on the end grain, as for the rounds, I fiddled with them for a while trying to get them to look right and then just gave up and accepted the madness, and truth be told I don’t really like it, the piece was a test bed.
So, I’m having the cedar siding replaced on my house, it’s starting to turn into a fucking pain in the ass, when I scheduled the work, the weather was beautiful, sunny, mid 40-50’s just beautiful, the problem is that now the weather has taken a shit, the contractor is hot to get it done, the problem is I was going to paint it myself, I am a painter, but, the back side of the house is a good 40’ off the ground and I have to rent a high lift to do the siding and paint, I was really hoping on getting that done at the same time that doesn’t look like it’s going to happen and I’m miffed because I will have to rent that machine twice... at 1000$ a week or pay a real house painter to come in and do the work... what a pain in the ass