Question For you Carpenters/Roofers

Hudson

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Jan 14, 2002
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#1
Myself and a friend recently bought a run down house for 1000 bucks. (no lie!) we have taken off the roof and are stymied about how to redo it...It is an 1888 Typical Western roof like you see in the movies: flat, about a 15-20 degree downward grade...I say raise the edges about 6 inches and make a slight inverted V ... friend says redo it as it was....
Structure has EXTENSIVE water damage from origional roof, from which we pulled 10 layers of roofing back down to origional tin roofing...
Beam/Frame seems pretty firm
 

Myhairygrundle

Screw you guys, I'm going home.
Jul 16, 2005
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#2
A photo would be helpful. How many squares is the roof? What material did you want to use?

Flat residential roof=lots of leaks.

.
 

Capt.Hilarious

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Apr 26, 2006
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#3
Keep in mind that vertical square footage is just as important these days as horizontal. So, if you have the chance to raise the ceiling height or even create cathedral ceilings, you should take it. Especially if this is an investment and you are looking to sell it for profit (although it sounds like you can't go wrong with the $1,000 price tag).

I only recommend you consult an engineer - if you change the roof, you will increase the load on the walls and foundation. Just make sure you don't create more problems....

Sounds like a fun project!
 

Mommadeez4u

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Mar 26, 2005
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#4
yes, post some photos, especially of the rafters. It was literally tin laid down over the rafters? or was their plywood sheathing, then the tin?
 

Hudson

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#5
No Plywood, 4 inch wide boards and tin over it approx 35 by 35 feet
 

Hudson

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#6
Keep in mind that vertical square footage is just as important these days as horizontal. So, if you have the chance to raise the ceiling height or even create cathedral ceilings, you should take it. Especially if this is an investment and you are looking to sell it for profit (although it sounds like you can't go wrong with the $1,000 price tag).

I only recommend you consult an engineer - if you change the roof, you will increase the load on the walls and foundation. Just make sure you don't create more problems....

Sounds like a fun project!
Friend is a Stanford Grad Engineer, I am just a schmuck Rutgers College English Grad who worked summers as a carpenter. Can't put in a pitched roof as it is a historical building and must be restored to origional look...the actual roof is approx a foot above the ceiling...and there was no insulation
 

Mommadeez4u

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Mar 26, 2005
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#7
what's your budget? if you have a bit to spend on it you can use stress skin panels (also referred to as SIPs, stress skin panels, foam core panels, or sandwich panels), which will have the insulation already built in. You can then roof it any way you wish, lap seamed tin or shingles.
 
Apr 22, 2005
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#8
Speaking from experience with homes in the NE US... Dunno what codes an stuff are in your area.

Honestly a flat roof isn't like a shingled roof that novice's should tackle. I'd plywood over the 4" slats and do a rolled roof or mopped roof with pitch and slag. Both things require specific equipment you can't just go rent.
 

Hudson

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#9
We are pulling out the slats and redoing it . Most boards are dry rotted...we have secured a grant from the city for redoing the whole shebang for 75,000...Was thinking a rubber membrane for the roof
 

Capt.Hilarious

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Apr 26, 2006
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#10
Are there parapet walls that would block people from seeing the roof from the street? Modified bitumen is a great roofing material but you have to make sure you know how to install it properly with the torch. You just have to heat it enough so that about 1/2" of the tar inside comes out of the top and bottom of each sheet. More than that and you heated it too much, less too little.

Most manufacturers give seminars to teach you how to apply their product.

Also flashing or termination bars is really important with that type of roof.
 

Goober

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Sep 1, 2005
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#11
We are pulling out the slats and redoing it . Most boards are dry rotted...we have secured a grant from the city for redoing the whole shebang for 75,000...Was thinking a rubber membrane for the roof
Make sure your new roofing material does not have a greater dead load then the existing roofing. You will not have to verify the capacity of the existing roof framing.

Are there parapet walls that would block people from seeing the roof from the street?
Avoid parapet walls because they will be subject to an additional surcharge loading due to snow drift.

I will send you a bill:action-sm
 

Mommadeez4u

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Mar 26, 2005
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#12
since you're redoing the rafters then you can absolutely account for the additional roofload you would have with stress skin panels. You could also do a timberframe design. You could get a glu-lam beam to carry the entire load at the ridgeline and essentially have a completely open area down below. 75 G's is a nice chunk, especially if you're doing the labor yourself.
 

Hudson

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#13
It has parapet Walls...think any building you see in the Westerns...It has an Enormous Oak Beam overhang at the front that we would really like to keep from replacing if possible additionally, all of the main support beams and frame are hardwood ......everything else is pine..added we are still trying to figure out how there are brick firewalls on the second floor but not on the first and how to deal with that... think we have agreed on hiring someone who is a roofing pro to take care of the roof
Ceilings are easily 8 -9 feet high..
 

Goober

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#14
It has parapet Walls...think any building you see in the Westerns...It has an Oak Beam overhang at the front that we would really like to keep from replacing if possible...
If the parapet is existing, there will not be a problem. 100 years is good enough proof that the framing can withstand the loads. Just don't make the parapet taller.
 

Polack

Who is John Galt?
Aug 25, 2005
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#15
Take up the 4" slats and lay down 3/4 tongue and groove plywood. Next lay down number 30 felt. then lay down ice and water shield on the edges of the roof. After that you can lay down rolled roofing or a membrane that you were talking about. those are the cheapest routes. If you want to get cheaper you could contact you local codes office and see if you could lay down 1/2" cdx rated plywood instead of 3/4"
 

BCH

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Jun 9, 2005
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#16
Wait, you bought this thing for 1,000 and the city just coughed up 75 grand to do the roof??
 

Hudson

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#17
Wait, you bought this thing for 1,000 and the city just coughed up 75 grand to do the roof??
not the roof the whole restoration...it is a historic building...so we can get another grant if we need to. The only thing I absolutley refuse to try is the rewiring of the electrical
 

Polack

Who is John Galt?
Aug 25, 2005
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#18
Wait, you bought this thing for 1,000 and the city just coughed up 75 grand to do the roof??
Sounds like it was for the total renovations cost. they wouldn't cough up that much for just the roof on an 1150 square foot building
 

Hudson

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#19
Butte has a huge hard on for renovating of old buildings. Here is the kicker...I technically have to live in it once it is finished or considered habitable for a year before we sell it by law. Hopefully by Xmas we can make the upstairs Habitable under code and work downwards. At least that is the plan.
 

Mommadeez4u

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#20
75 G's? A 50" plasma would go a long way towards making the place habitable:D
 

Hudson

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#23
Doing this for fun, WTF? The ole flipperoooooo ????
Kinda....looking to turn it into rentals
All sorts of neat old stuff in the building...huge Cast iron Tubs and sinks, Lead Crystal Light Fixtures that were origionally gas powered...(old gas pipes are all over the house as well as the turns to turn up/down the gas).