Tear Drop Trailer - Anybody Own One or Build One?

Shootr

OOHHH, GNARLY!!!
Donator
My Honda 2000eu is very quiet when it has a low amp load on it. 5 amps or under lets say. Put something on it slightly higher and then it does get a little louder. If you have something like lights plugged in or some other low draw load, you can put it in eco mode and almost forget that it is running.

We got to use a Honda 3000eu that we rented from United Rentals a year and half ago and it was pretty quiet when just charging cordless tool batteries. But use the cutoff saw or a port-a-band saw or a die grinder and the rpm's came right up and the noise along with it. It didn't get loud per se, but you knew it if you were trying to talk on your cell phone or something like that. Not loud, but definitely there.

Great generators though. I've been really happy with mine. Good luck with yours. Can you link yours with another one to get even more power or no?
Yeah, it has those connectors to do it, but I just can't see needing anymore than what this should put out. I'm happy to have headroom, a toilet, and grown up bed - we're supposed to be camping after all :p (But that A/C is going to be handy next weekend - high 90's possible)
 

THE FEZ MAN

as a matter of fact i dont have 5$
Ain’t
Yeah, it has those connectors to do it, but I just can't see needing anymore than what this should put out. I'm happy to have headroom, a toilet, and grown up bed - we're supposed to be camping after all :p (But that A/C is going to be handy next weekend - high 90's possible)

Ain’t nothing wrong with AC we’ve earned it
 

Shootr

OOHHH, GNARLY!!!
Donator
Well it easily starts and runs the A/C, pulls about 16 amps when starting and settles in at 12 when running. Thing is, I plugged the trailer into a 110V outlet for giggles, and it still starts and runs just fine - so now I'm wondering if all the salespeople and internet camping geniuses have been theorizing instead of providing any real world experience - and a 2000W would have sufficed. It's mostly about the weight (100lbs) - to lift into the truck that I'm not crazy about. Oh well, is what it is...

Spent the day on improvements - made a platform for the doggie bed to go under the dinette. The mounts stick up 1-1/2" so she wasn't too comfy last time.








Hopefully she'll find it this comfy...

 
Damn, last I checked this thread you were using a battery for some measly accent lights and seat heaters as heated mattress pads.

Nice to see things have improved a bit.
 

THE FEZ MAN

as a matter of fact i dont have 5$
Well it easily starts and runs the A/C, pulls about 16 amps when starting and settles in at 12 when running. Thing is, I plugged the trailer into a 110V outlet for giggles, and it still starts and runs just fine - so now I'm wondering if all the salespeople and internet camping geniuses have been theorizing instead of providing any real world experience - and a 2000W would have sufficed. It's mostly about the weight (100lbs) - to lift into the truck that I'm not crazy about. Oh well, is what it is...

Spent the day on improvements - made a platform for the doggie bed to go under the dinette. The mounts stick up 1-1/2" so she wasn't too comfy last time.








Hopefully she'll find it this comfy...



So, the deal with generators is you generally only want to run them at half load, you are correct, a 2000w generator would absolutely work, but, you will be running that 2000w generator at an 80-90% duity cycle which is not only bad for your generator it’s bad for your equipment.
Ever try and run a piece of high draw equipment with a really cheep shitty extention cord? Same concept
 

Ballbuster1

In The Danger Zone...
Wackbag Staff
So, the deal with generators is you generally only want to run them at half load, you are correct, a 2000w generator would absolutely work, but, you will be running that 2000w generator at an 80-90% duity cycle which is not only bad for your generator it’s bad for your equipment.
Ever try and run a piece of high draw equipment with a really cheep shitty extention cord? Same concept
Yup. Don’t want to run close to max long. That overheats the equipment and brings on early failure.
 

ysr50

Well-Known Member
Donator
You think I could use this to lift the generator into the bed of the truck? 300lb capacity, swivels to turn the load towards the bed, etc. Couple slings and I think it could work.

https://www.opticsplanet.com/hme-products-truck-hitch-game-hoist-complete-kit-w-winch-gambrel.html

Why not leave the generator in the truck and run cables? Maybe you mean getting it into the truck before you leave. Look at the pyramids or Stonehenge and consider how daunting that task must have seemed. I prefer any sort of geared hoist, although a long lever with enough weight works very well also.
 

Shootr

OOHHH, GNARLY!!!
Donator
Why not leave the generator in the truck and run cables? Maybe you mean getting it into the truck before you leave. Look at the pyramids or Stonehenge and consider how daunting that task must have seemed. I prefer any sort of geared hoist, although a long lever with enough weight works very well also.
It's just to get it in/out before/after trips. If my son's home we should be able to lift it in, but I don't think the wife is up for it.

I have an old convoluted foam mattress topper from the teardrop. I plan on leaving the generator in the bed, with the exhaust aimed at the cab, then throw that on top (loosely - plenty of breathing room for it and not near the hot stuff) - I think it will help absorb a dB or two - if necc. at all.
 

THE FEZ MAN

as a matter of fact i dont have 5$

Shootr

OOHHH, GNARLY!!!
Donator
Still high desert, but a little cooler, especially as the sun goes down...

Generator rules, took a nap with the a/c on and it was wonderful. PV panel works great, tonight we'll see how the new battery holds up to lights, radio, and charging phones.
 

Shootr

OOHHH, GNARLY!!!
Donator
Fatal flaw in the slaw...

Finally figured out why my portable grill, that I plug into a propane quick connect line on the back of the camper, wasn't getting as hot as I thought it should:

There's a regulator on the 20lb bottle connector, and another one on the grill. I can't remove either one - the camper feeds the inside stove, heater, and fridge. The grill one is integral to the flame adjust valve.

So I grabbed an unused Coleman stove from the attic and started fiddling.

The "regulator" doesn't seem to be any more than a valve core similar/identical to a car tire stem. After pulling it out, I can blow through the small fitting, impeded only by the brass screen in the tip.

I believe I should be getting full, regulated flow out of the quick connect camper system, and a more reasonable flame.

So, any opinion if I may be on the right track, or making a bomb, or other suggestions?

 
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THE FEZ MAN

as a matter of fact i dont have 5$
Fatal flaw in the slaw...

Finally figured out why my portable grill, that I plug into a propane quick connect line on the back of the camper, wasn't getting as hot as I thought it should:

There's a regulator on the 20lb bottle connector, and another one on the grill. I can't remove either one - the camper feeds the inside stove, heater, and fridge. The grill one is integral to the flame adjust valve.

So I grabbed an unused Coleman stove from the attic and started fiddling.

The "regulator" doesn't seem to be any more than a valve core similar/identical to a car tire stem. After pulling it out, I can blow through the small fitting, impeded only by the brass screen in the tip.

I believe I should be getting full, regulated flow out of the quick connect camper system, and a more reasonable flame.

So, any opinion if I may be on the right track, or making a bomb, or other suggestions?

Can you remove the quick disconnect and install a ball valve?
 

Shootr

OOHHH, GNARLY!!!
Donator
Can you remove the quick disconnect and install a ball valve?
I don't think that's the choke point. The gas is already at a regulated flow/pressure when it reaches it (and it has a ball valve on it already).

Camping forums keep pointing at the second regulator and pretty much any grill/stove that is supposed to use the 1lb green bottles - just an incompatible design to try and use "regular" propane bbq plumbing.

One dude just posted he tried what I'm doing and it didn't work.
 

THE FEZ MAN

as a matter of fact i dont have 5$
I don't think that's the choke point. The gas is already at a regulated flow/pressure when it reaches it (and it has a ball valve on it already).

Camping forums keep pointing at the second regulator and pretty much any grill/stove that is supposed to use the 1lb green bottles - just an incompatible design to try and use "regular" propane bbq plumbing.

One dude just posted he tried what I'm doing and it didn't work.

Ahhhh ok, I see what you’re talking about now, you are using two regulators, the one coming out of the trailer, which is regulated to “working pressure” and your grill, which is using its own regulator.


There may be several issues going on, is the tank regulator on the trailer working correctly? The new propane regulators are twitchy as hell, they are designed to prevent catastrophic leaks, so, if you open the valve to quickly on the tank, they can go into “safe” which will greatly reduce gas flow if not completely shut it off (I found this out the hard way).
So, that’s the first place to start, I’m assuming that the tank on the trailer has the big black knob that screws into the tank? Like on a gas grill with the "over flow prevent valve” not a fitting that requires a wrench to install.
Shut off the valve on the tank, then make sure all of the trailer internal valves are closed, remove the Black fitting from the trailer tank like you are going to change the tank, if it “hisses” when you disconnect it, you have tripped the regulator into “safe mode”
Leave the regulator disconnected from the tank for about 20mins, this should allow the regulator to bleed off the accumulated pressure in the regulator.
Reconnect the regulator, then very slowly open the valve on the tank if you hear a “frrrrt tink” type sound (you will know the noise if you hear it) you have tripped the regulator, and either something is still on in the trailer or, the lines need to be purged.
If the regulator does not trip, go to the closest valve, then open that one, I will assume it’s the stove, light that, all the burners, slowly, once those are lit, and burning correctly, shut them down, and work your way to the last one, I will assume the heaters then fridge, till everything is running correctly.
Now to the external line. Hook that up, make sure all the valves are closed. ever so slowly open the burner on the grill I like to use a torch to light those just so I can see if it’s purging air once it’s lit you can fiddle with it to see if you are getting proper gas flow. If you are not getting the proper flame, then the regulator on the grill it’s self is the issue, so, you can eliminate it and use a small cheater valve, or use a “high flow” regulator like yto u use on a high volume burner like a turkey fryer.
The camping forums may be correct in assuming that the regulator on your grill is designed to only be used with the small bottles and the working pressure from the trailer is insufficient to move the spring in the valve.

But, my bet is on one of those two regulators being in “safe mode”
 
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